Chef Joseba and Carolin travel to the Basque Country several times a year in search of new sources of ingredients and inspiration for new dishes. Listed below are a few of their favorite places to eat and sleep followed by links of general information about traveling in the Basque Country.
Bakio
A possible excursion in Vizcaya from Bilbao could be to Bakio, a small village on the coast whose claim to fame is having the best “left wave” in Europe and home to an international surfing competition. In Bakio visit one of Joseba’s mentors, Patxi, the award winning butcher who has won numerous competitions for his blood sausage and chorizo. Bakio is also home to Gorrondona, a winery making award winning red and white txacoli wine.
Dining
Eneperi
San Pelaio 89 Te#94-619-4065 Fax#94-619-3417
http://www.eneperi.net
The chef Rosa will take care of the most sophisticated palates. The restaurant is located away from the center of town near the bluff overlooking the Cantabrian Sea. The setting is breathtaking. It may seem out of the way but this restaurant is a destination for locals of the region and fills up quickly. Either arrive early, or call ahead for lunch reservations.
Joshe Maribel's Restaurant-Bar-Hotel
Bentalde #31 T# 94-619-40-05 Fax# 94-6195703
For something more traditional, visit our friend, Margarita, in this family run hotel and restaurant Joshe Maribel. The grand mother makes croquettas from farm fresh milk and they serve their own house made fresh potato chips in the bar. The hotel’s 5 rooms are quite comfortable.
Biarritz
Located on the French Basque coast, Biarritz is known for its surfing, casino and resort atmosphere. It is a great base from which to visit nearby Saint Jean de Luz and the Irouleguy wine region. It has a lovely long promenade which hugs the cliffs above the surf and beach and leads to the center of town. An annual film festival is also held here each January.
Lodging
Vacation Apartment Rental
Bill and Sue Barr 33-5-59-34-34-14 France billbarr@summerflat.com
http://www.summerflat.com/
THE best spot to stay in Biarritz! Perched on the bluff above the beach, this turn-of-the-century apartment has amazing views and the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in. The kitchen is well equipped for those who, like us, enjoy taking advantage of the local markets. Its web site does not do justice to this enchanted spot.
Bilbao
The Spanish Basque Country is divided into three different provinces. Vizcaya is the northwest province with Bilbao as one of its main destinations. Bilbao is home to an excellent traditional market, El Mercado de la Ribera, located on two levels of a 19th century hall along the river on the edge of Las Seite Calles, Bilbao’s old town.
Lodging
Hotel Tryp Arenal
Fueros #2, Bilbao T# 94-415-3100 Fax# 94-415-6395 E-mail tryp.arenal@solmelia.com
This hotel is located 1 mile from the Guggenheim Museum; on the edge of old Bilbao called LAS SIETE CALLES. It’s a pleasant walk from the hotel to the museum along the recently restored and beautified river walk. This is a medium sized full service hotel, frequented by business and leisure travelers alike.
Dining
Xukela
El Perro2, Bilbao T# 94-415-9772
The perfect place to go for pintxos (Basque version of tapas), is this traditional bar located in the old town.
Zortziko
Alameda de Mazarredo 17, Bilbao T# 94-423-9743
http://www.zortiko.es/
Go across the river if you feel like having a more elegant dinner. Zortziko serves high quality cuisine in three dining rooms near the Guggenheim.
Cantabria
One of the last parts of Spain to be touched by tourism, Cantabria is an area of breathtaking natural beauty. Wooded mountains and steep-sided valleys meet the Atlantic Ocean as sandy coves, dotted with pretty fishing villages. Strictly controlled development along the coast means that the rural hamlets and local culture has changed little since Medieval times. Sites of historic interest range from the Neolithic cave paintings of Altamira and Candamo to Romanesque chapels and 15th century towers.
Lodging
La Pinia
http://www.lapinia.com/
Located about 30km from Santander this charming vacation house was lovingly restored by the parents of Etel, a long-time server here at The Harvest Vine. Purchased as a shell of stone walls, Etel's parents painstakinly salvaged old beams, hand-hewed planks and even built most of the furnishings. All this done on the weekends, after working full time. This house is truly a labor of love.
Gernika
On your way to Donostia (Basque name for San Sebastian) you must stop in Gernika, the city of the fueros (traditional Basque laws) and famous Gernika museum. This town is well known due to Picasso’s famous mural portraying the bombing of Gernika in the Second World War. Every Monday is market day in Gernika.
Dining
Zallo Barri
Juan Calzada 79 T# 94-625-1800
http://www.zallobarri.com/
Chef Iñigo is one of the best chefs from Vizcaya. This restaurant was originally opened by his parents as a simple regional place. A few years ago, after running the kitchen for several years, Iñigo renovated the space into a beautiful modern restaurant to showcase his inspired cuisine.
La Guardia
This village of 1500 inhabitants boasts of having I believe, 25 bars at last count. It’s no wonder once you know that it is located in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa wine region in the province of Alava. This walled village is surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye can see. No cars or delivery vans are allowed inside the village walls because ancient wine cellars have been constructed under all of the streets.
Lodging
Castillo El Collado
T# 941 12 12 00
http://www.littlehotelsofspain.co.uk/elcollado.htm
The Castillo is an enchanted noble house turned into a hotel with restaurant. Each room is uniquely decorated. Owned by the reserved, yet elegant Javier Acillona, uncle of Asier from Marixa. The rooms are quite spacious and the restaurant is very elegant.
Marixa
Sancho Abarca 8 T# 945 600 165
http://www.hotelesruralespaisvasco.com/
A hotel and restaurant owned and run by two generations of the Acillona family. They serve very good regional food at very reasonable prices. Asier, the managing son, also owns an excellent wine shop in the village.
Dining
El Portico
Mayor de Migueloa 2 T# 945 60 07 34
Located within the town walls this café and restaurant is one of the more recent additions to La Guardia’s culinary scene. It is named for the portal of the town church which it faces.
San Sebastian
SAN SEBASTIAN is the home of New Basque Cuisine. As the star of the Guipouzkoa province, it is filled with Michelin starred restaurants as well as lively, humble bars. Here are a few of our favorites.
Lodging
Hostal Alemana
San Martin 53 T#943-462-544
http://www.hostalalemana.com/
Hostal in Spain refers to a pension or bed and breakfast, not a youth hostel. This one is family owned: the matriarch, Aurora, will serve you breakfast, which includes delicious freshly squeezed orange juice, and one of her sons will most likely check you in at the front desk. The rooms are simply decorated and impeccably clean. Best of all the hostal’s location can’t be beat—it’s just one block from La Concha beach. Chef Joseba and his wife Carolin stay here at least once or twice a year. Say "Hola" to Aurora and tell her Joseba the chef with the moustache sent you.
Dining
Bar Iturrioz
San Martin 30 T# 943-428 316
This bar is not located in the old town so it’s rare to find non-natives here. They have a beautiful tasty display of pintxos on the bar that you can simply order by pointing. The main reason Joseba goes though, is for the "pintxo de foie", a piece of foie gras on toast with apple purée that is cooked to order. It is bargain priced at around $2 a piece. It’s listed on the blackboard behind the bar.
Bar Txapetxa
Pescaderia 5 T# 943 42 22 27
Located on the edge of the old town near the La Bretxa market. This unpretentious bar specializes in anchovy pintxos—classic combinations like anchovies with olive purée to new combinations like anchovy filets with coconut or foie gras.
Casa Nicolasa
Aldámar 4 T# 943 421762
This intimate restaurant is located up one flight of stairs from street level just a few doors down from a great gourmet food shop and across the street from the La Bretxa market. Chef Jose Juan Castillo serves elegantly presented traditional Basque dishes.
Casa Urola
Fermín Calbetón 20 T# 943 423 424
When Chef Joseba craves traditional Basque cuisine, he visits his friend Patxi at Casa Urola. Upstairs in the comfortable and lively dining room, one rarely sees a foreigner. This is where the locals go.
Ganbara, Bar y Restaurante
San Jeronimo 21 T# 943 422 575
This bar and cellar restaurant is located on one of the main streets in the "casco viejo" or old town. It is often jam packed with people spilling out of its open storefront in good weather. Tapas not to be missed, "jamón jabugo" the most coveted cured ham and "hongos" porcini mushrooms seared on a griddle and served piping hot with a raw farm fresh egg yolk. Many of their pintxos are served in mini two-bite croissants instead of on bread. They are irresistible!
Kokotxa
Campanario 11 T# 943 421 904
http://www.restaurantekokotxa.com/
This is a recent addition to the San Sebastian culinary scene. Innovative but unpretentious dishes are the mainstay of the young chef's kitchen. His wife oversees the airy, contemporary dining room located on the edge of the old town near the port.
Tolosa
Tolosa is a market town located about 20 minutes inland from San Sebastian. The market is held every Saturday in the market hall along the river. The main reason we visit this town is for Maestro Gorrotxategi’s chocolates. A side note, the town of Ordizia, just a bit farther down the road is home to an amazing market every Wednesday.
Lodging
Hotel Oria
Oria 2 T# 943- 65 46 88
This medium sized hotel is just a few years old and done in a hip, modern style.
Dining
Gorrotxategi
Plaza Zarra 7 943- 67 07 27
http://www.gorrotxategi.com/
This café serves delicious coffee and pastries but is known especially for its artisan made chocolates. Call ahead and make an appointment to visit the chef’s private chocolate and pastry arts museum next door.
Sagardotegia Oria
Oria 2 T# 943- 65 49 21
This "sidreria" or cider house is located in the basement of the Hotel Oria. It was recently constructed but has a great old style feel. The menu is simple but absolutely delicious and you get to serve yourself hard cider directly from the casks—just watch how the locals do it.
General Links
Mirabel’s Guides
This link was recommended to Carolin by a long time regular customer. It is packed with over 30 pages of information about lodging, dining and points of interest throughout the Basque Country of Spain and France
Rural Guest Houses
This is the official, prize winning website of the Rural Tourism Department of the Basque Country. It lists dozens of rural houses one can stay in. Some are owned by working farmers, others are not. Since one can drive from one end of the Basque Country to the other in a little over an hour, staying in a rural guest house is a relaxing, economical home base alternative to staying in a hotel in Bilbao or San Sebastian.
